Jan 16, 2013

Cuisine Love: An Apron Tutorial


I'm having major Apron Love at this time of year. Maybe all year.

A friend gave this one it's name: Cuisine Love. 

This one is specially made (with Love!) for a lady who lives in a Nursing Home

This apron, by far, is my most favourite apron to sew and wear. I love the bib shape, and full skirt coverage WITHOUT the added bulk of pleats and ruffles. Oh, to be 125 lbs again.

Oh, what the hay! Bring it on. I hope you enjoy this tutorial. 
These quantities are approximate. I used materials on hand. 

All seam allowances are ¼”.

Materials

1m Main Fabric (pink hearts)
1/2m Second Fabric (red)
1/2m Third Fabric (white)
Thread to match
Seam binding/bias tape
Ric rac, lace, other embellishments

Cut Fabric Pieces 

1) Cut 3 skirt panels.  


Start with a 15” x 19” piece of Main Fabric. (I used pink hearts.)
At the waist edge, measure in 2 ½” from the side and mark. Do this for both sides.

Mark a ½” line down from the waist edge, across the panel. Mark the center on this line.
From the center, draw a curve to the corners on the waist edge.

At the hem of the panel, mark the center of the bottom raw edge. Measure ½” up from the bottom on both sides and mark. Draw a curve from the ½” side marks to the center of the bottom raw edge. 

Cut the bottom curve.
From the bottom corner, draw a line to the 2 ½” mark that you made at the waist edge. Cut the side angle. Do the same for the other side.
Cut the waist curve.  

The waist of the apron that I made is 30” waist minus seam allowances.

This could easily be made with smaller panels. Ie:
~ 15” x 19” = 10” waist, 15” hem x 3 = a 30” waist minus seam allowance.
~ 13 ½” x 19” = 9” waist, 13 ½” hem x 3 = a 27” waist minus seam allowances.
~ 12” x 19” = 8” waist, 12” hem x 3 = a 24” waist minus seam allowances.


2) Cut 2 bib top panels. 

Start with an 11 ½” x 5 ½” piece of Fabric#3. (I used white.)
Measure 1 ¾” in on each side of the bib top, and mark.

Draw a line from this mark to the bottom corner. Cut.

The top measures 8”, the bottom 11 ½”.

3) Cut 2 bib bottom panels: One in Main Fabric (pink hearts), one in Fabric#3 (white.) 

Make your pattern pieces. Start with a 13” x 7 ¼” piece of Fabric. 

At the bottom of each side, measure over 3” and mark. (This will be a dart fold.) 
From the dart fold marks, make a mark ½” on both sides at the raw edge. Also from the dart fold mark, measure 5” up. That will be how long the dart is. From the top of the dart to the ½” marks that you made on both sides of the dart fold on the bottom raw edge, draw a line. You will be sewing on this line.

From the bottom corner of the panel, mark ¼” up the side. From this mark, draw a line to the dart sewing mark (1/2” from dart fold). Cut.

From the top corners, measure in 1 ¼” and mark. Draw a line from this mark to the newly cut bottom corner marks. Mark a line ¼” down from the top raw edge. From the sides, measure in 2” and mark. From these marks, draw a line to the top corners. Cut from marks to the corners, and from mark to mark.

4) Cut 2 waist ties. I used Fabric#2 (red.

Ties are 3” x 42”, I normally make them 30” long, but I wanted this one to warp around and tie in the front. 

We will cut the Waist Bands later.

5) Cut 1 neck tie. I used my Main Fabric (pink hearts.) Tie is 2 ½” x 23”

6) Cut 4 Pockets.  
Cut one in Main Fabric (pink hearts), one in Fabric#2 (red), and two in Fabric#3 (white)
Start with 8” squares. Pockets can be any shape, really. I cut mine into hearts.






Apron Skirt

7) RST, pin skirt panels to each other. Stitch. Finish the seams with a zig zag stitch or serge. If you don’t, they will fray!

8) Draw a curve on the bottom hem of the skirt at both corners. I used a mixing bowl to get a nice curve. Cut. 



9) Hem the skirt edge

(I would normally do a ¼” hem, where you fold  over ¼” & press, then fold over another ¼” and press again and stitch. But I wanted this one fancier.) 

I used ¼” double fold seam binding for the edges. The more pins I use, the better it turns out ~sigh.
I used *many* pins as I pinned the seam binding to the raw edge of the skirt. 

I stitched close to the folded edge of the binding (approx  1/8”,) making sure that I sewed through all the layers.









Pockets

10) RST, pin pocket fronts to pocket backs. 
Sew, leaving a 2” gap. Clip corners. 

Turn right side out thru the gap. Poke a pencil into the gap, making sure the corners are pointed. Press.

11) Pin ric rac to edge of ACCENT pocket (red pocket). Stitch.

12) Place pockets to front of apron skirt. Edges of finished pockets are close to the skirt panel seams. 

Bottom of the pockets are 8 ½” from the bottom raw edge. Pin in place.



As you pin, adjust for your hand in the pocket.

Sew around the edge of the pockets, leaving a comfortable opening for your hand.







Bib

13) For the bib bottom, start by ironing the dart fold. RST, iron along the fold line. 

Pin in place. 

Stitch along the sewing line that you drew (1/2" from the fold at the bottom, to 5” from the bottom at the fold.) 

Press seams towards the middle. 

Repeat for other bib bottom.





After sewing the darts into the bottom bib piece, you will see that it is now a rectangle shape, not that weird shape that we cut!



14) RST, pin FRONT bib top (white) to FRONT bib bottom (pink hearts). Sew. 

Repeat for BACK bib top and BACK bib bottom.




15) Pin ric rac across the seam of the bib front. Sew in place.



16) Pin bib FRONT to bib BACK, right sides showing. Press under the top edge of the bib approx. ¼” – ½” (however much you decide to turn under) so you will know when you hem it how much it will be. 

Open the hemline that you just ironed for now.













Pin seam binding to sides of bib. At the top of the bib, start your needle at the hemline that you ironed (not at the raw edge.) Sew binding onto bib, making sure that you stitch thru all the layers.

(Normally, I would not have seam binding. I would: RST, pin bib FRONT to bib BACK at the sides. Sew the bib together at the sides only. Press seams open. Turn right side out. Press a ¼”- ½” hemline into the top of the bib.)


 Waist Band

17) Measure the width of your apron skirt at the waist. Mine was 29 ½”. 

Add approx. 1”+ for your band. 

Cut 2 waist bands (Main Fabric – pink hearts) 2” wide x 31” long.
(You need the band longer than the skirt waist so you can hem the ends.)

18) Press under ¼” – ½” on both waistbands, just one side.

19) RST, pin waist band to apron skirt at raw edge. 

To do this, take the end that is folded and match it up to the side hem of the skirt. Pin the rest of waist band to the skirt. When you get to the other end, iron a hem into the end of the band, matching it up to the side hem of the skirt, plus slightly longer (1/8”.)  


20) Do the same with the other waistband on the other side of the skirt. Pin right side of waist band to the wrong side of the apron skirt at the raw edge.

21) Sew together, making sure that you sew all three layers of fabric.

22) Turn waist bands right side showing, and press seamline open.

23) On the top sides of both waist bands, fold and press ¼” under so that they match. Pin.

Waist Ties

24) RST, fold waist tie lengthwise (hotdog-style). Pin. Cut the ends at 45 angle, for pointed ends. Stitch around 2 sides of the ties, leaving one end open.

25) Turn right side out thru open end. Press. Edge stitch around three sides of the ties.

26) Insert a waist tie into the waist band on both sides. Pin in place.

Neck Tie

27) RST, fold neck tie lengthwise. Pin. Stitch down one side. Turn right side out. Edge Stitch both long sides.

28) Insert the ends of the neck tie into the open top of the bib, at the sides. Pin in place.

The End is Near

29) Insert the bib into the waist band of the skirt. Center the bib on the center panel of the skirt. Pin in place. 

30) Starting at the base of the bib, sew around the four sides of the waist band. Make sure that the waist ties are inserted far enough so that they get sewn in. Same with the bib and neckties.

31) Stitch the open end of the bib closed, making sure the neck tie ends are inserted far enough so that they get sewn into this seam.

32) Pin ric rak across the top of the bib. Stitch.

I Love Dem Aprons! By Auntie Dem :)

Variations:

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