Vintage Apron Tutorial ~ Adjustable!!

This is my newest Apron. It's inspired from a vintage 1940's style apron, with straps that cross in the back. 

I sewed mine so that it is completely adjustable. I stitched the back straps to the waist ties, making them very long. 

The aprons of the 40s & 50s had back straps that were often sewn directly into the waistband. To make mine an adjustable apron, I added "belt" loops to the waistband where the waist ties would have been stitched together. This is so that my straps can go thru it. 

The waist ties can either be tied in the back, or crossed around and tied in the front.

The child straps are too short for my Large Adult sized torso.

See where the waist ties are attached to the straps? That seam should be near the belt loops to properly fit a child.

The 1st apron was child sized, and would fit a child probably 5 - 10 years old very comfortably. It would fit a petite lady, if the bib was adjusted for a longer torso. 

The tutorial is for an ADULT sized Vintage Apron. 

Supplies:

You will need about 2m of fabric

Thread to match

Ribbon, lace, rick rack, for embellishment

Pattern Pieces:

Bib: Cut 1 on Fold:  8 1/4" x 10 1/2". Th top of bib is placed on fold. This measures 8 1/4" x 21" if unfolded.

Straps: Cut 4 on Fold:  2 1/2" x 20 1/2". This measures 2 1/2" x 41" when unfolded.

Waist Band: Cut 2:  2 3/4" x 31"

Waist Ties: Cut 2"  4 3/4" x 30"
Waist Tie Ends: Cut 2:   4 3/4" x 16 1/4"

Bib Ruffle: Cut 2:   5 1/4" x 33 1/2"

Skirt: Cut 1:   40" x 15"

Skirt Ruffle: Cut 2:   40 x 5 1/2", sewn together to make 80" x 5 1/2" long

Pockets: Cut 4:   6 1/2" x 7 1/4"

Belt Loops: Cut 2: 4 1/2" x 5"

Assembly: unless stated, seam assembly is 3/8"

Skirt Ruffle: 

RST (Right Sides Together) with a 1/4" seam, sew skirt ruffle pieces (31 x 5 1/2") together to make one long piece. 

Zig zag or serge this edge.

Fold over 1/4" and press along one long side of ruffle. 

Fold over 1/4" again and press. Stitch.

On the other long raw edge, make 2 baste lines, and gather this edge of the ruffle.

This needs to be gathered to the width of the skirt.

Attach Ruffle to Skirt:

WST (Wrong Sides Together) match up skirt ruffle to skirt bottom edge. 

Pin in place. Stitch.

Cover this seam with seam binding. Or Make your own, or use pre-made.
Or... Since the skirt edge was not a curve, it really didn't need the stretchiness of bias tape.
I always change things, and changing my own patterns is a given DOH!

I cheated and cut a strip of fabric 1 1/4" x width of skirt.
Then I folded both long edges over 1/4" to meet in the middle, and pressed these edges.

Unfold the bias tape (or keep as pressed if you cut your own piece).
Pin bias tape to gathered edge of skirt/ruffle seam.... however.....
Match up the fold line on the bias tape with your stitching line, or your stitches will show through!

Sew bias tape to ruffle seam. Trim seam to 1/4". Press.

Lay bias tape flat on top of the skirt, encasing the seam. 

Pin in place. Stitch.

Hem the sides of the skirt & ruffle:

Fold over 1/4" and press along one side of the skirt and ruffle. 

Fold over 1/4" again and press. Stitch.

Repeat for other side.

Make 2 baste seams along the top (raw) edge of the skirt. Gather to approx 30" for now.

Bib:

Okay, I digressed again from my pattern. Instead of the bib being one piece, I cut it using 2 pieces of fabric and added a 1/2" extra (where the fold line would have been) for a seam allowance.
RST, sew Bib Front to Bib Back at the new seam allowance line (the top.)
Turn right side out. Press and baste.

or if you followed the pattern....

WST, fold bib in half, matching up the notches. Press and baste.

Either way, now you have the same size of bib. Continue:

Bib Ruffles:
Again, I changed my pattern. Instead if cutting the ruffle pattern piece on the fold, I cut 2 pieces and joined them together. I finished the seam with a zig zag, and trimmed it close.

Fold over 1/4" and press along the straight side of the ruffle.

Fold over 1/4" again and press. Stitch.

Baste 2 lines around the curved edge of the ruffle.
Gather the curved (notched) edge of the ruffle.

Repeat for other ruffle.

Straps:
RST, pin ruffle to strap, placing ends at the marked dots.

Pull up gather stitches to fit. Baste. Stitch.
Press ruffle out.
Press seam toward strap, pressing under the remaining seam allowance of the strap.

Repeat for other strap.

On outside, baste straps to bib from dot to bottom edge, matching notches.

Press under 3/8" on long edge of facing with small dots (matching up to your baste seam.)

Turn garment over, so the back side is showing.

On back of bib, RST pin facing (back strap) to back of bib, matching large dots.
Do not stitch the strap ends. Turn under 1/2" and press. Waist ties will go in these openings.

Trim seam and corner.
Turn strap right side out, and press.
Press under 1/2" at strap ends.
Stitch pressed edges together (where I made those red dots), leaving strap ends open (where the red arrows are.)

I ended up leaving this pinned for now, and stitching it all together after my tie ends were finished.

Tie Ends:
RST with a 1/4" seam, sew one tie end to one waist tie to make one long tie. It should total  4 3/4" x 46".

Zig zag or serge this edge.

Repeat for other tie.

Make a "narrow hem" along the unnotched edge of ties. To do this:

Stitch 3/8" from the lower edge of the tie.

Turn the raw edge to inside so that it just meets the stitching line. Press.

Turn press edge to inside again, along stitching ling. Press.

On inside (back side), stitch close to the finished edge.

RST, fold end of tie along the fold line, having the raw edge even (match up the notches and raw edges.)

Stitch.

Turn the tie end right side out and press.

Narrowly hem remaining upper edge of tie (like you did for the lower edge), stitching to the end.

To make pleats in the waist tie, on the outside, fold along the solid lines.


Bring folds to the dotted line.
Pin. Baste.

Repeat for other tie

Insert pleated ends of waist ties into the corresponding apron strap ends.

Pin. Stitch. 

This is what mine looked like after sewing around the straps, and sewing the waist ties into the strap ends:

Waist Band (front):
Turn and press under 1/2" on front waistband sides. Open these up.
RST pin front skirt to front waistband, matching up centers.
The waistband will extend about 1/2" beyond the skirt width. That's what you need!
Match sides of the skirt to the dots (or its the same as the line that you pressed into the waistband.)

Gather skirt to fit. Baste in place.
Stitch. Trim seam (use pinking shears.)
Press seam toward band.
Press waistband out.
.
Waist band facing (back):
RST, pin facing (back waistband) to back side of skirt, matching up raw edges.
Pin. Stitch.
Press waistbands together, pressing the skirt away from it.
Turn under and press along 1/4" - 1/2" on the top of both waistbands (front and back), making sure that you iron them on top of each other to ensure exact size.
Pin in place.
Turn in 1/2" or so on the sides of waistband. Press.
These are the openings for your belt loops.

Find center of the bib and waistband.
Carefully insert bib between bands, sandwiching the bib.
Pin.

Belt Loops:
Fold RST, stitch along the 5" long side, making a tube.
Press seam open.
Turn right side out.

With the seam down the middle, press.
Fold in half so the seam is hidden, matching raw edges.
Press. Baste.

Insert raw edges of belt loops into waistband sides.
Pin.
Stitch around 3 sides of the waist band, making sure to catch the belt loops and the bib in your seam.

Pocket: