Scrappy Corset Apron Tutorial

My BFF asked me for an apron, so I came up with this one for her. 

After I made the blue apron, I found that the waist was tinier than comfortable for me.

For future reference, make the BLUE panels larger at the waist, and less pointed.

Version 2 of my apron has notes written in purple.

Supplies:

1-2m of fabric (I didn't measure, just used scrappy pieces)

        Main fabric, Gingham, blue, white
notions (rickrack, ribbon, bias tape, lace, buttons, etc) 

All seam allowances are ¼” unless stated.

Main fabric, 2^nd fabric, pink, brown, Lg Gingham, Sm Gingham

thread to match

The Apron Skirt:

Cut Pieces:

Cut 4 of the Main Fabric

Cut 3 of the “Middle” Secondary Color (blue)

Cut 3 of the “Left Side” (white)

Cut 3 of the “Right Side” (ie: flip the Left Side piece over to cut) (white)

In a sense, the v.1 of the skirt had 7 panels joined together. Three of these panels were white/blue/white. 

In version 2, I made the skirt with 9 panels. Since I was adding a bottom ruffle, I shortened the panels to approx 14". The skirt panels are 4" wide at the top, 6" wide at the bottom.

Cut 4: Main Fabric (multi-color  dots)
Cut 2: Middle (brown) 1 3/4" x 14"

Cut 3: Secondary Fabric (beige dots)
Cut  2: Left Side (pink) 1 3/4" x 14"
Cut 2: Right side (pink) 1 3/4" x 14"

I started with sewing the L & R white side pieces to the blue Middle together.

RST, pin a Left Side piece to a Middle piece. Stitch.

RST, pin a Right Side to the same Middle piece.

Continue this for all Middle Pieces to make Middle Panels.

RST, pin a Main piece to a Middle panel. Stitch together.

Repeat this, alternating the pieces.

You want the finished skirt to go like this:

 A-B-A-B-A-B-A

       or A-B-C-A-B-A-C-B-A

When the apron skirt pieces have been sewn together, the seams have to be finished, or they will fray.

Zigzag or serge all the seams that you just made, making the apron skirt.

Trim the excess from the zigzag seams.

Tidy up the waist and bottom edges so that they are even.

Pockets: (I used gingham to match my gingham bib):

Cut 2 pieces that are 8”x12”

For v.2, I used a pocket from my previous tutorial: Ruffled Cupcake Apron Tutorial.

Cut 2: Gingham
Cut 2: Pink

Then skip down to “Apron Bib” instructions.

For Both pieces: 

At the top, mark 1 ½” in from each side. (Use a pin, chalk, sewing pencil, etc.)

From the bottom, measure 3” up the sides. (That is the maximum width of this pocket, 8”.)

Make a line from your first mark (1 ½” in at the top) to your second mark (3” up from the bottom, on the side.)

The bottoms are curved (I used the bottom of a mixing bowl.) 

I also folded the pieces in half, to be sure that both pocket pieces were identical.
Cut out both pocket pieces.

On one of the pocket pieces, we need to cut out for the hand hole. No science involved, I marked my piece to fit my hand.

5” from the top was plenty. It could have been shorter (3 ½ - 4” deep), to make a deeper pocket.

From the new cut top of the pocket piece, measure 2” in from both sides and mark. The curve of the pocket opening is between these new marks.

I didn’t have a pattern, so I just measured what would be comfortable for my hand.

Pocket Front:

Fold over ¼” on the pocket opening and press.

Fold over ¼” again, press, and pin.
You may have to clip the fabric a little at the curves.

Sew the pocket opening hem with a 1/8” seam allowance.

Pin rickrack to the pocket opening, and stitch in place.

Pin the Right Side of Pocket front to the Wrong Side of Pocket back.

Sew around the outside edge.
Finish that seam with a zig zag or serge.

Turn right side out.

Place pocket on the apron skirt, pin.







Pocket placement should be about 6” from the side of the apron skirt. 
I just lined up the pocket edge to a seam in the skirt.

Stitch the pocket to the skirt, close to the edge of the pocket.

Pin rickrack to the pocket edge, and stitch in place.  

Apron Bib:

Cut 2 Side Panels, 4 ½ x 11”
Cut 1 Middle Panel, 4 ½ x 11”
v.2: cut panels to 4 ½” x 8 ½”

Topper:
Cut 1 Top Piece, 2 x 13”
I added this top piece, as I needed a longer bib for a tall lady.
I didn’t have ribbon, so I used bias tape, and stitched both edges to make my “ribbon.”

Mark on the bib Middle panel ¼” down from the top and ½” up from the bottom. 

Mark in 1/4" on both sides. You do not want your ribbon in those areas.

I marked with pins the spots where I thought ribbons would look good with 4 ribbons crossing.
That means 5 spots to evenly mark on both sides.

Don’t forget that anything between the raw edge and ¼” from the edge will be sewn inside the seam.
These spots are where your ribbons meet.

v.2 Mark the same, but only use 3 sets of "lacings."

Baste or stitch ribbons in place.

RST, sew the side panels to the middle panel, making sure which side is “up.”

Trim the excess from the seam.

Attach Bib Topper piece.

RST sew topper to top of bib. 

Press seam towards top.

Bib Lining: I used white.
Cut 1: 12 ½ x 12 ½”

v.2 Cut 1 (small gingham). 

I cheated and cut it to size after sewing the bib front together.

RST, Sew Bib Lining to Bib at the sides.
Turn right side out. Press.

 

Hemming the Skirt:

  

You can hem by different ways. I did it this way because of the lace that I had.

RST, pin raw edge of lace to raw edge of skirt.

Sew in place

Fold over ¼” (on your seam) and press.

Fold over ¼” again and press. Pin.

Stitch bottom hem close to both folds that you just made.

v.2: I made a ruffle 4 1/2" x 90", and attached it to the skirt with pin tucks. Little tucks, evenly spaced (about 1" apart) around the skirt bottom.

I hemmed my ruffle with a ¼” hem. 

Fold over ¼”, Press. Fold over ¼” again, press, stitch.

WST, pin ruffle raw edge to skirt bottom edge. Stitch.
Press seam towards skirt.

Place ribbon over the seam.
Sew along both long edges of the ribbon to encase the seam.

The Waistband, Waist Ties, & Neck Ties: 

Cut 2 Neck Ties 4” x 26” (or desired length)
Cut 2 Waist Ties 4” x 36” (or to desired length) (v.2 cut 4 3/4" x 35")
Cut 2 Waist Bands 2 ¼” x 21” (v.2 cut 3" x 35") (it's the Width of apron skirt plus 1”)

Before we can add the waistband to the skirt, the sides of the skirt need to be hemmed.

On both sides of the skirt, fold over ¼” and iron. 

Fold over ¼” again and press.

Pin in place. Stitch.

RST, pin both waistbands to the apron skirt, matching the raw edges. Leave a little extra waistband on the sides. That extra ½” is now turned under (to almost match up with the side hems) and pressed. The waistband is slightly larger than the width of the skirt.
Be sure to secure the pocket tops into the waistband.

v.2 Sew pockets to front of skirt at anytime. 

Sew waistbands to skirt. Turn waistband right side showing and press seam.

The tops of the waistbands are now pressed under ¼”.
Be sure the waistbands are the same size after ironed, as you will be sewing them together.


The bib top is also pressed under ½”.

After ironing, pin together. 

Leave approx. 2” on each side of the bib top, to insert the neck ties.

Pin the bottom of the bib into the waistband.

Sew the bib to the waistband. 

Don’t sew any farther, we will match the sewing lines up later..

Waist Ties & Neck Ties:

You have already cut out the neck and waist ties. Go get them.

RST, fold ties lengthwise. Press. Pin.
If you want a rounded tie end, cut ends with a curve and sew along that line. I normally cut a 45 degree angle at the ends, so they are pointed.

RST, sew ties on two sides, leaving one end open. Clip corners.

Turn right side out. Make sure that if you have points, that you clipped the corners before turning the fabric. Take a pointy object (pencil) and stick into the tie. Make that point nice and pointy! 

Press. Edgestitch along three sides of the tie. Leave raw edge raw.
Repeat for all the ties. 

V.2, this is for neck ties only.

Waist Ties: 

Make a "narrow hem" along one long edge of the ties. To do this:

Stitch 3/8" from the lower edge of the tie.

Turn the raw edge to inside so that it just meets the stitching line. Press.

Turn press edge to inside again, along stitching ling. Press.

On inside (back side), stitch close to the finished edge.

Press another narrow hem into 2 remaining sides. Only pin for now.

RST, fold end of tie along the fold line. Stitch.

To make pleats (see Vintage Apron Tutorial) in the waist tie, on the outside, fold along the solid lines.
Bring folds to the dotted line.
Pin. Baste.

Repeat for other tie.

Final Assembly:

Insert the neck ties into the bib top. Pin.
Sew across the top of the bib.
Insert the waist ties into the waistband. Pin.

Sew around 3 sides of the waist band, making sure that the waist ties and bib are sandwiched between all the layers.

Whew.

I Love Dem Aprons! By Auntie Dem

Version 1

Version 2